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MSA GUIDE TRAINING ICE
Register for course

Course Rundown

Accommodation

Accommodation is not included.

Food

Food is not included.

Course Cost:
$620 ($155 per day) per person based on 4 participants
5% GST (Goods & Services Tax)

Duration:

4 days (4 evenings, 3 training days, 1 exam day)

Location:

Canmore and Banff, Canadian Rockies

Guide to client ratio:

1:2 on multi-pitch days otherwise 1:4

Fitness:

Peak fitness

Ability:

Advanced

Prerequisites:

AST1 avalanche course. Ice climb at a minimum of grade of WI 3 - 4 and have done basic level mixed climbing. Recommended previous courses: Ice Leader and Ice Multi-Pitch. Provide a resumé of 15 single pitch ice routes and 8 multi-pitch ice routes.

Ages:

21 years old and up

Equipment:

Equipment is not included however rentals can be arranged.

Transportation:

Transport is not included however this can be arranged for an additional $20.00 per day.

Booking deadline:
n/a

MSA GUIDE TRAINING ICE

Course Description

A course specifically designed to train and certify aspiring alpine guides, alpine club amateur ice leaders or advanced recreational ice climbers. Upon course completion candidates receive an MSA internationally recognized Ice Master Certificate.

Aspiring Guides: Those seeking acceptance and certification into an IFMGA member countries Alpine Guide training program to pursue a career in professional ice guiding such as Alpine Guide.

Alpine Club Amateur Ice Leaders: Those seeking to become alpine club leaders in order to lead alpine club recreational ice climbing trips in safety and confidence.

Advanced Recreational Ice Climber: Those seeking the highest competency in ice climbing systems and application.

This is our most advanced and fast paced course, which modeled on actual official Ice Guiding training/exam courses. The training portion of the course meets or exceeds UIAA training standards, while all the skill sets, techniques and application of these are based on the standards set by the IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations). Be prepared for in-depth and intensive skills training days as well as demanding technical ascent days. These are preceded by evening route planning sessions that focus on such things as local weather conditions, route plans and guides/leader meetings.

The assessment/exam portion of the course not only insures candidates meet the necessary standard to lead others into the ices independently, safely and in confidence but has also been designed to replicate an actual professional level guide exam. This is highly beneficial to the candidates learning and development.

This training course is designed to help candidates obtain the full repertoire of advanced ice climbing systems skills, leadership and guiding technique. Along with their proper and timely application and use. The advanced knowledge and skill sets gained from this are based on IFMGA skills, techniques and standards. This course is designed to meet, facilitate and prepare aspiring assistant alpine guides at the IFMGA standard. Further more, the course is designed to meet the training standards as required by the UIAA for Alpine Club Amateur Ice leaders. 10 days, 3 evening sessions, 66 lessons and 14 assessment categories make up the course. See itinerary.

The course is broken up into two separate segments- Seven training days and an exam of 4 assessment days. Instructors to participant ratio’s are low; two candidates to one ice guide for any technical ascents, all other days are 1:4.

Successful candidates will receive an official MSA Ice Master certificate and a full evaluation. Those seeking IFMGA Alpine/Mountain Guiding stream or Alpine Club Amateur Ice Leader careers will additionally receive important MSA letters of recommendation from their instructors. These are for aiding in gaining acceptance to official IFMGA Alpine Guide training programs, acquiring employment or acquiring Amateur Ice Trip Leader positions with Alpine Club trips. We also provide each guide candidate who took the course for guide training purposes with important feedback, a list of recommended objectives and tasks to be accomplished in order to either successfully be accepted to the Assistant Alpine Guide training program or to pass the Assistant Alpine Guide program exam.

Course Itinerary

View logistics - Course Equipment, Accommodation, Food and Transportation options view logistics
Equipment List - What to bring?, what not to bring? We can answer those questions view equipment list

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Evening one 18:00 orientation meeting at Alpine Club House Canmore AB

Sign waivers, safety discussion and equipment check.

Discuss:

Ethics and tradition
Environment and access .
Risk management, safety and emergency procedures

Lesson 1 Evaluate Weather & CAA Avalanche Forecast
Lesson 2 Choose an appropriate venue - use of Parks Canada ATES Scale & MCR
Lesson 3 Introduction to a guides meeting & trip planning
Lesson 4 Guides ice climbing pack
Lesson 5 Environment : Leave no trace and wildlife discussion

Day one 7:00 meeting at Summit Café Canmore top of page

Morning Meeting: Coffee or tea, review, todays agenda.
Lesson 6 Review latest weather, current conditions and environmental concerns
Drive: Drive to local area
Lesson 7 Safety: Risk & hazard management and safety protocols for ice and mixed climbing.
Lesson 8 Client care
Lesson 9 Area preparation and safety - group management
Ice climbing warm up
Lesson 10 Top rope scenarios, acceptable anchors, belay techniques, directionals
Lesson 11 Climb off: ice climbing evaluation & feedback
Lesson 12 Teaching techniques: Ice axe and crampon school
Lesson 13 Teaching techniques: Basic ice climbing/mixed climbing school - safety considerations
Lesson 14 Rappelling and lowering - normal & problematic
Lesson 15 Rope ascension with crampons
End of field session
Lesson 16 18:00 Evening session - emergency response
Lesson 17 Troubleshooting
Lesson 18 Record keeping
Nutrition
Physiology and injury prevention
End of evening session

Day two 7:00 meeting at Rocky Mountain Bagel Co. Downtown Canmore top of page

Morning Meeting: Coffee or tea, review, Q & A session, todays agenda, equipment check.
Guides Meeting: Weather, avalanche and current conditions followed by route choice
Drive: Drive to ice climbing area.
Lesson 19 Ice Anchors: testing & trouble shooting, rappelling with J-loop
Lesson 20 Introduction to short roping
Lesson 21 Low angle ice safety
Lesson 22 Improvised ice rescue scenario: escape the system, rappel, stabilize, ascend, raise, lower.
Lesson 23 Improvised ice rescue discussion scenario: Lead climber over 40 meters out must rescue second. Rappel down past ice screws, establish new anchor, rappel, stabilize, paired rappel or lower.
Lesson 24 Introduction to multi-pitch guiding technique
Lesson 25 Evening session 18:00: Multi-pitch pre- planning for weather, avalanche forecasts and equipment preparation

Day three 7:00 meeting at Rocky Mountain Bagel downtown Canmore top of page

Morning Meeting: Coffee or tea, review, Q & A session, todays agenda, equipment check.
Guides meeting
Mock client/group preparation
Drive: Drive to local area
Lesson 26 Client care, pace setting, safety reminder: Current hazards and safety protocols for multi-pitch ice climbing.
Lesson 27 Multi-pitch guiding technique
Lesson 28 Mutli-pitch descent guiding technique
Q & A
Skills and technique review
Evening Session: 18:00 Guiding/leadership role
Homework: Next day objective, day plan and backup plan

Day four 7:00 meeting at Rocky Mountain Bagel downtown Canmore top of page

Morning Meeting: Coffee or tea, Days agenda
Assessment 1: Review weather, avalanche and current conditions
Assessment 2: Review day plan/ guides meeting
Assessment 3: Client Care and preparation
Drive to local ice crag
Assessment 4: Managing a group at an ice crag, set up top ropes
Assessment 5: Improvised ice rescue scenario
Assessment 6: Multi-Pitch ice guiding technique
Assessment 7: Problem solving scenarios
Meeting at local pub
Personal liability and insurance
Training
Course debrief, marking card, accreditation and Ice Master certificate, letters of recommendation
Next step discussion and advice

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Course Logistics

View Itinerary - A day by day summary of the course view itinerary
Equipment List - What to bring?, what not to bring? We can answer those questions view equipment list

Accommodation

It is best for participants to base out of Canmore for this course as we begin early each morning.

Should you require accommodation in Canmore, we have organized for your convenience excellent value accommodation packages with local providers: economy option at the Alpine Club of Canada Clubhouse $30 per night w/ kitchen facilities, superior option at the Rocky Mountain Ski Lodge $123 per night based on double occupancy and luxury options - prices range on luxury level. These choices are made available during the booking process.

Food

Students are responsible for their own food. Canmore has an excellent choice of supermarkets and restaurants to meet any budget. Many of the accommodation options include a kitchen and/or breakfast.

Transportation

Students are responsible for their own transportation. We encourage car- pooling and usually this works out very well. Transport for the week is available for an extra $20.00 per participant.

Equipment

This course includes all the climbing equipment you will need. Though we have harness, helmet, locking carabiner and belay device for your use, we do recommend participants to purchase these items since they are very personal, require specific fitting and used anytime you will go ice or rock climbing. Own your equipment already? We recommend you use it, as it is best to be familiar with your own equipments specific attributes. Organized for your convenience (we make zero profit on this) we also have available packaged equipment deals for purchase with a selection of different products - please inquire.

Please view equipment list

Equipment List

View logistics - Course Equipment, Accommodation, Food and Transportation options view logistics
View Itinerary - A day by day summary of the course view itinerary

Clothing

Warm top and bottom under layers
Warm socks
Mid layer fleece top
Optional soft shell top or thicker fleece
Hard shell Jacket
Soft or hard shell pants
Gaiters- optional
Warm hat
Balaclava or neck tube -optional
2 pairs of gloves
Mitts- optional
Puffy synthetic jacket or goose down parka
sunglasses and sunscreen/lip balm
Hand warmer packs- optional

Equipment

35L backpack
Helmet
Harness
Ice climbing boots
Ice axes
Crampons
Ice Screws-Instructor
Ice quick draws
Anchor Material- slings ets- Instructor
Rope- Instructor
V-Thread Hooker
2 locking carabiners
1 belay device
1 double length sling
1 small knife
Spare carabiners
Head lamp

Food & Water

Please ensure you have a packed lunch everyday and snacks every day with enough high energy food for the day and lots of fluids.

Other

None

Course Photographs

Fitness Explained

Good Fitness
In good general health- able to walk or ski for at least two hours at a slow pace (including breaks) in undulating terrain. Able to carry a light load (25lbs = 12 kilos).

Very Good Fitness
Exercise regularly (in gym, mountains, etc)- have fairly good cardio. Can walk or ski for several hours (including breaks) over several days in diverse mountain terrain at a moderate pace (including up hill and down hill). Able to carry a moderate load (35-45 lbs = 16- 20 kilos)

Peak Fitness
Follow a routine exercise schedule and may even be training for sports or expeditions. Excellent cardio and good stamina. Able to walk or ski all day at a moderate pace over several days in diverse mountain terrain including steeper uphill and downhill sections. Able to carry moderate loads of (35 to 55lbs = 25 kilos). You feel it would be reasonable for you to acclimatize on peaks.

Ability Explained

Introductory
Suitable for beginner level, no prior experience required.

Intermediate
You have previous experience and a good general knowledge of the sport.

Advanced
You have very good knowledge of the sport developed from regular practice.

Backcountry Skier Ability Level

Type I Beginner
Skis slowly and conservatively. Newer to backcountry skiing, links parallel turns and able to slide slip more difficult sections. Can stop when desired.

Type II Intermediate
Skis at a moderate pace. Links parallel turns in powder and can come to a full stop on demand. Able to handle varied snow conditions and terrain. Has no problem skiing in trees or negotiating short ski crux's (difficult sections).

Type III Advanced
Skis more aggressively, at higher speeds and able to ski advanced terrain. Can handle different snow conditions. Enjoys more technical terrain. No problem handling short cruxes and steeper sections.

Type IV Expert
Aggressive and fast, capable of skiing in all conditions. Able to negotiate difficult sections, ski in couloirs and prolonged steep terrain.

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Course Schedule & Pricing


Scheduled Course Date	Course Price	Register	Inquire
January 3 - 6, 2012	$620 + 5% GST		Inquire
Please contact MSA directly for alternate dates for pre-arranged groups of 4 or more people	$620 + 5% GST		Inquire
n/a	$620 + 5% GST		Inquire
n/a	$620 + 5% GST		Inquire
n/a	$620 + 5% GST		Inquire
n/a	$620 + 5% GST		Inquire
n/a	$620 + 5% GST		Inquire
n/a	$620 + 5% GST		Inquire

Private Course Option
We also offer our students the option of a private course. Join a group of friends together, let us know your group size and preferred dates. See chart below for private course prices.

*Bonus! The group organizer will save 10%. Single private course also available.


Private Date Option	Course Price	Register	Inquire
4 People	$1155 + 5% GST		Inquire
3 People	$1470 + 5% GST		Inquire
2 People	$1577 + 5% GST		Inquire
1 Person	$2835 + 5% GST		Inquire

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