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Technical Alpinism Course
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Course Rundown

Accommodation

All out-trip accommodation is included (5 hut nights & 6 days at Conrad Kain hut). Canmore lodging on days 1 & 7 can be arranged for an additional $30.00 per night.

Food

All out-trip food is included. Meals on day 1 and dinner on day 7 can be arranged for an additional $35.00.

Course Cost:
Course Cost: $1750.00 per person based on 4 participants.
5% GST (Goods & Services Tax)

Duration:

7 days

Location:

Bugaboo Provincial Park, British Columbia (days 2-7) & Rocky Mountains, Alberta (day 1)

Guide to client ratio:

Days 1 & 2(skills days); 1:4 Days 3-7 (technical ascent days); 1:2

Fitness:

Very good fitness

Ability:

Intermediate

Prerequisites:

Basic crevasse rescue/glacier travel, mountaineering, rock and ice climbing experience.

Ages:

18 years old and up

Equipment:

Guide will provide ropes and protection gear but no other equipment is included.

Transportation:

Transport is not included however this can be arranged for an additional $50.00 for the week

Booking deadline:

2 weeks before course

Technical Alpinism Course

Course Description

The quintessential advanced skills developer and performance enhancer for technical alpine terrain.

A course designed to form alpinists. Preparing participants to become fully autonomous for technical roped multi-pitch snow, rock, ice and mixed climbing in complex mountain terrain.

We took great care in crafting this course, ensuring that each participant would develop a strong foundation in technical alpinism. Our cutting edge approach combines the following factors:

Fully comprehensive curriculum developed by leading alpinist and Guides
Training that is held in premium alpine terrain
Course is taught only by fully certrified IFMGA Mountain/ACMG Alpine Guides Note: Americans- please review the differences between an IFMGA certified guide and the usual non certified guides. Click here for more info: IGB and then click certified guides
Very low Guide to Student ratio: 1:2 on all technical ascent days (days 3-7), 1:4 on first two days.
Mountain Mentoring Technique: Instructors provide ongoing mentoring through evaluation, feedback, demonstration, practice and fine tuning
Customized lessons: several of the lessons (45 total) will be customized to each participants current experience, climbing levels and needs
Fast Paced Instruction: Full days throughout the course allows each lesson to move along efficiently and effectively, thereby allowing students fully immerse themselves, learn more, accomplish more thus progress faster and more effectively
Student Leading: Students will be taught and given the opportunity to lead in technical alpine terrain (within their ability and comfort zone) in order to develop self-sufficiency at their level

In this way we are able to increase safety, tackle more challenging objectives and tailor the training based on each participants current experience and needs. The result is that everyone is able to maximize their skills and knowledge, at their level of ability and comfort. This which will effectively propel their alpine climbing potential by creating a strong foundation in technical alpinism and efficeintly preparing them for fast and safe progression.

Here is a quick overview of the skills that will be taught:

♦ Alpine climbing technique & strategy ♦ Alpine specific climbing protection (traditional gear, snow pickets/flutes, ice screws, piton craft and terrain anchors) ♦ Glacier travel, trip planning ♦ Understanding, recognizing and mitigating mountain hazards ♦ Mountain safety ♦ Mountain rescue ♦ Navigation ♦ Performance alpine climbing

We feel certain that after taking this course, most of our students will not only succeed in their mountain endeavors but also quickly progress. Here is what participants can expect after course completion;

Personal competency, mountain objective information gathering and research, environmental conditions:
- choosing an appropriate mountain objective within ones ability, figuring out weather, route condition, route description and topo, creating a trip plan, equipment needs, time frame, forming a logical action plan and climbing strategy
Approaching the route:
- Proper and safe navigation to the objective, bivouac or alpine start, understanding, recognizing and mitigating hazards to be expected, problem solving - i.e. crevasse rescue
Confidently tackling an objective as a trained alpinist should:
- Keen mountain sense, hazard recognition, safety first, situational awareness, problem solving such as sudden storms or having to retreat. Confidently and safely climbing on vertical and low angle alpine snow, rock and ice (at personal ability level or how to overcome a hard crux - Aid climbing). Route finding and navigation keeping the team on track.
Once on the summit or if retreating, preparing for an efficient and safe descent, rappelling the route or going down via a different way than on the way up.

From ridges to faces, rock to snow and ice. Single push alpine missions or high altitude expeditions. Whatever your alpine aspirations are, challenge yourself amongst the great glacial ranges of the world and discover the rewards and challenge of alpinism. We would like to help you discover a world of mountains and summits in a way that allows you to do so with maximum safety, efficiency, success and humility! Whether you venture to the Canadian Rockies, European Alps, the Andes or the mighty Himalaya, this course will have you prepared in approaching these magnificeint places to climb their peaks as an alpinist.

Course Itinerary

View logistics - Course Equipment, Accommodation, Food and Transportation options view logistics
Equipment List - What to bring?, what not to bring? We can answer those questions view equipment list

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Day One 8:30 orientation meeting (location TBD) in Canmore

Formal introductions, outline of the weeks program, overview of conditions, sign waivers, safety discussion and equipment check.
Lesson 1 Equipment: alpine climbing equipment overview.
Lesson 2 Environment : leave no trace and wildlife discussion.
Lesson 3 Review of the mountain objective and subjective hazards
Drive to local climbing area
Onsite safety: current hazards and safety protocols.
Lesson 4 Climbing movement and technique review (belaying, rappelling, climbing with mountain boots, equipment use, etc)
Lesson 5 Rope ascension with ratchet or prussic introduction/review
Lesson 6 Rope handling alpine technique
Lesson 7 Packing for alpine climbing
Drive back to Canmore base
Lesson 8 Preparing for a week of alpine climbing
Lesson 9 Weather & conditions check (weather forecasts, satellite maps, data loggers, radar maps, pressure map, avalanche bulletin if applicable, mountain condition websites and other resources)
Final equipment check.

Day Two 7:00 orientation meeting (loaction TBD) in Canmore

Morning Meeting: coffee or tea, review, Q & A session, days agenda, equipment check.
Drive: drive to the Bugaboos
Lesson 10 Approaching a hut (pace, communication, resources, hazards, map)
Walk to the glacier: glacier travel & crevasse rescue review
Ice climbing review on the glacier
Technical Alpine Skills: TBA - refer to special itinerary note and lessons 17-45 below
Back to the hut
Day debrief
Lesson 11 Evening meeting: choosing an objective, topo’s and route description
Lesson 12 Trip planning: basic
Lesson 13 Route planning: basic
Conclude for the day

***Special Itinerary note for days three to seven: We do not schedule the Technical Alpine Skills lessons since each of these is introduced when the instructor feels it is best depending on several factors such as weather, conditions and sutdent progress. Each evening the instructor will announce which set of lessons will be taught on the next day. Here follows the skills that will be taught from days three to seven.

Snow and Ice School: intermediate to advanced technique

Lesson 17 Assessing snow quality - bare boot climbing vs crampons
Lesson 18 Steep snow ascension/traverse/descent - boot & ice axe step cutting
Lesson 19 Self arrest face forward scenario - left and right axe hand
Lesson 20 Snow anchors & running belays
Lesson 21 Ice protection & anchors - glacier, ice face, alpine ice gullies
Lesson 22 French technique crampon school
Lesson 23 Advanced mountaineering axe technique - piolet cannes, etc…

Alpine Rock & Ice multi-pitch climbing

Lesson 24 Assessing climbing difficulty - equipment, mountain boots, crampons, rock shoes
Lesson 25 Alpine rock protection - traditional equipment
Lesson 26 Alpine rock protection - terrain features
Lesson 27 Alpine rock protection - piton craft
Lesson 28 Alpine rock technical to non technical transition
Lesson 29 Alpine multi-pitch technique
Lesson 30 Alpine rock technical descent

Intermediate/Advanced Rope handling

Lesson 31 Managing the rope - ascent and descent
Lesson 32 Taking coils
Lesson 33 Short roping technique
Lesson 34 Ridge/arête counter balance technique

Lesson 35 Route finding
Lesson 36 Hazard recognition, avoidance, mitigation
Lesson 37 Situational awareness
Lesson 38 Environmental and route condition/changes
Lesson 39 Weather & conditions recording

Navigation

Lesson 36 Map and compass
Lesson 37 Re-section
Rescue & Problem solving
Lesson 38 Improvised mountain rescue
Lesson 39 Communication and resources

Mountain Bivouac Discussion

Lesson 40 Choosing a proper bivouac site
Lesson 41 Bivouac equipment
Lesson 42 Emergency bivouac

Technical Alpinism Strategy

Lesson 43 Leading in blocks
Lesson 44 Maintaining flow
Lesson 45 The light and fast technique- speed is safety

Day Three anywhere from 4:30 to 7:00 start time: Conrad Kain hut dining room

Morning Meeting: Coffee or tea, review, Q & A session, days agenda, equipment check.
Technical Alpine Skills - TBA. A selection from lessons 17-45
Back to the hut
Day debrief
Evening meeting
Lesson 14 Trip Planning - intermediate
Lesson 15 Route Planning - advanced
Conclude for the day

Day Four anywhere from 4:30 to 7:00 start time: Conrad Kain hut dining room

Morning Meeting: coffee or tea, review, Q & A session, days agenda, equipment check.
Technical Alpine Skills - TBA. A selection from lessons 17-45
Back to the hut
Day debrief
Evening meeting
Lesson 16 Trip Planning - white-out plan
Route Planning - advanced
Conclude for the day

Day Five anywhere from 4:30 to 7:00 start time: Conrad Kain hut dining room

Morning Meeting: coffee or tea, review, Q & A session, days agenda, equipment check.
Technical Alpine Skills - TBA. A selection from lessons 17-45
Back to the hut
Day debrief
Evening meeting
Next days trip plan
Next days route plan
Conclude for the day

Day Six anywhere from 4:30 to 7:00 start time: Conrad Kain hut dining room

Morning Meeting: coffee or tea, review, Q & A session, days agenda, equipment check.
Technical Alpine Skills - TBA. A selection from lessons 17-45
Back to the hut
Day debrief
Evening meeting
Next days trip plan
Next days route plan
Conclude for the day

Day Seven 6:30: Conrad Kain hut dining room

Morning Meeting: coffee or tea, review, Q & A session, days agenda, equipment check.
Technical Alpine Skills - TBA. A selection from lessons 17-45
Back to the hut
Drive back to Alpine Club of Canada Clubhouse, Canmore
Trip debrief
Presentation of MSA Technical Alpinism Certificate of Achievement
Next steps
Celebratory supper and outing
Conclusion of course

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Course Logistics

View Itinerary - A day by day summary of the course view itinerary
Equipment List - What to bring?, what not to bring? We can answer those questions view equipment list

Accommodation

All out-trip accommodation is included. Six nights at the Conrad Kain hut in Bugaboo Provincial Park.

Should you require accommodation in Canmore, we have organized for your convenience excellent value accommodation packages with local providers: economy option at the Alpine Club of Canada Clubhouse $30 per night w/ kitchen facilities, superior option at the Rocky Mountain Ski Lodge $123 per night based on double occupancy and luxury options - prices range on luxury level. These choices are made available during the booking process.

Food

All out-trip meals are included: breakfast, lunch and supper. Please be sure to let us know if you have any food allergies or preferences e.g. peanuts, vegetarian. If you have favorite snacks or energy treats, we recommend that you bring these. For your convenience, MSA offers discounted meal deals set up with local providers. Add all meals for day 1 and supper on day 2 for $35.00.

Transportation

Transportation is not included for this course. We recommend car pooling and usually this works out well. If you require transportation it can be added for $60.00 for the week.

Equipment

Equipment is not included for this course. Your instructor will provide ropes and protection equipment. If you own protection equipment we recommend you bring a small rack: 6 stoppers, 4 cams, 2 ice screws, 6 shoulder length slings with set up as draws. Please refer to the equipment list for what you will need. For your convenience, MSA offers discounted equipment rentals with local provider GearUp Sports. Please let us know if you need any equipment.

Please view equipment list

Equipment List

View logistics - Course Equipment, Accommodation, Food and Transportation options view logistics
View Itinerary - A day by day summary of the course view itinerary

Clothing

Warm toque/ hat
Ball cap
Wicking underlayer
Mid layer fleece
1 warmer fleece
Soft shell type outer layer top and pants
Spare socks, underwear
Hard shell Jacket
Wind breaker pants
Gaiters
2 pairs of summer climbing gloves

Equipment

35L - 50L backpack
Head lamp
Water bottle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Hiking pole
1 Three season sleeping bag synthetic or down
Bivy bag- optional
2 man tent- optional
Guides tarp- optional
Bowl and eating utensils can be borrowed from the hut for the one night bivouac- to be returned in good condition
Helmet
Harness
Moutnain climbing boots
Mountaineering axe
1 technical ice axe
Crampons
3 locking carabiners
1 belay device
1 double length sling
4 non-locking carabiner
2 X 5 meter prussic’s
1 X 1 meter prussic
1 ice screw
Compass
Map- Bugaboos
First Aid Kit with blister kit-optional
Write in the rain book and mechanical pencil

The following is brought by the instructors. Should students own protection equipment they are encouraged to bring a small alpine rack.

1 Programmable radio for each intructor
2 Ice Screws
5 cams from .4 to 2
1 set of stopper
10 alpine sl sling draws
2 double length slings
Spare carabiners
selection of pitons
piton hammer
Anchor Material- slings etc
Rope
V-Thread Hooker
1 small knife
Rope:
1 light iso-butane stove (pocket rocket)
Stove gas cannister for 1 bivouac
1 light cooking set

Food & Water

All out-trip meals are included; Breakfast, Lunch and Supper. Please be sure to let us know if you have any food allergies or preferences; i.e. penuts & vegetarian. If you have favorite snacks or energy treats, we reccomend that you bring these. For your convenience, MSA offers discounted meal deals set up with local providers. Add all meals for day 1 and day 2 supper for $35.00

Other
n/a

Course Photographs

Fitness Explained

Good Fitness
In good general health- able to walk or ski for at least two hours at a slow pace (including breaks) in undulating terrain. Able to carry a light load (25lbs = 12 kilos).

Very Good Fitness
Exercise regularly (in gym, mountains, etc)- have fairly good cardio. Can walk or ski for several hours (including breaks) over several days in diverse mountain terrain at a moderate pace (including up hill and down hill). Able to carry a moderate load (35-45 lbs = 16- 20 kilos)

Peak Fitness
Follow a routine exercise schedule and may even be training for sports or expeditions. Excellent cardio and good stamina. Able to walk or ski all day at a moderate pace over several days in diverse mountain terrain including steeper uphill and downhill sections. Able to carry moderate loads of (35 to 55lbs = 25 kilos). You feel it would be reasonable for you to acclimatize on peaks.

Ability Explained

Introductory
Suitable for beginner level, no prior experience required.

Intermediate
You have previous experience and a good general knowledge of the sport.

Advanced
You have very good knowledge of the sport developed from regular practice.

Backcountry Skier Ability Level

Type I Beginner
Skis slowly and conservatively. Newer to backcountry skiing, links parallel turns and able to slide slip more difficult sections. Can stop when desired.

Type II Intermediate
Skis at a moderate pace. Links parallel turns in powder and can come to a full stop on demand. Able to handle varied snow conditions and terrain. Has no problem skiing in trees or negotiating short ski crux's (difficult sections).

Type III Advanced
Skis more aggressively, at higher speeds and able to ski advanced terrain. Can handle different snow conditions. Enjoys more technical terrain. No problem handling short cruxes and steeper sections.

Type IV Expert
Aggressive and fast, capable of skiing in all conditions. Able to negotiate difficult sections, ski in couloirs and prolonged steep terrain.

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Course Schedule & Pricing


Scheduled Course Date	Course Price	Register	Inquire
August 11 - 17, 2012	$1750.00 + 5% GST		Inquire
Please contact MSA directly for alternative dates with pre-organized groups	$1750.00 + 5% GST		Inquire
n/a	$1750.00 + 5% GST		Inquire
n/a	$1750.00 + 5% GST		Inquire
n/a	$1750.00 + 5% GST		Inquire
n/a	$1750.00 + 5% GST		Inquire
n/a	$1750.00 + 5% GST		Inquire
n/a	$1750.00 + 5% GST		Inquire

Private Course Option
We also offer our students the option of a private course. Join a group of friends together, let us know your group size and preferred dates. See chart below for private course prices.

*Bonus! The group organizer will save 10%. Single private course also available.


Private Date Option	Course Price	Register	Inquire
4 People	$1750.00 + 5% GST		Inquire
3 People	Please enquire with MSA for private pricing.		Inquire
2 People	$1875.00 + 5% GST		Inquire
1 Person	Please enquire with MSA for private pricing.		Inquire

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