ADVANCED CREVASSE RESCUE & GLACIER TRAVEL

Self-reliance of small teams is key when travelling in glaciated terrain because any problem encountered has the potential to be severely magnified. Compared even to a smaller 3 person team, a single surface rescuer has less weight to act as a surface fall arresting force, they must hold the victim weight while building an anchor.

One person generates far less hauling power than 2 or more. In the case of self-rescue the person in the crevasse, will need to contend with their equipment and ascend the rope past knots. This clinic provides all of the skills and more to deal with such contingencies.

Important notice! This course is not a crevasse rescue course or intended for those who have not formally learned crevasse rescue. It is important for all participants to have previous glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills prior to taking this course. Only a brief review of the basic 3-1 Z-Pulley and 5-1 Increasing Advantage will be reviewed. Past Crevasse Rescue Course participants are encouraged to review their skills prior to the course. Previous MSAA students please consult your student handout from your previous course as well as any related course MSAA Tech Videos.

Meet at 8:15am at the Squamish Adventure Centre Centre. The guide will have everyone sign a waiver (if you have not done so already) and give a brief safety briefing along with discussing the day's objectives.

The day will end at approximately 4:30pm with a short debrief of the day

Rentals/Purchase:

If you require rentals we have teamed up with local rental companies to provide discounted rentals. Visit our rental page HERE for more information!

Equipment:

• Harness
• Helmet

Clothing:

• Warm clothing (wool/synthetic recommended)
• Warm socks (wool/synthetic recommended)
• Insulating jacket (down or similar)
• Shell jacket (Gore-tex or similar)
• Shell trousers (Gore-tex or similar)
• Warm gloves and shell gloves
• Warm Hat
• Backpack
• Lunch/Snacks
• Water (approx. 1-2L)
• Hot tea, coffee or hot chocolate in a thermos (optional)

A Crevasse rescue kit required* (see complete list below) – Kit can be rented from MSAA however we highly recommended using your own gear.

Crevasse Rescue Kit:

• Progress capture (*Micro Traxion or Autoblock: e.g. Reverso/ATC Guide)
  *Progress capture devices with integrated pulley will provide significant advantages
• Locking Carabiners x 4
• 2 light pulleys or a pulley and pulley carabiner
• 1 x 120cm sling (double length) & 1 x 140cm sling (triple length)
• 2 x 5-7mm X 5 meter prussiks (diameter depends on your main rescue rope diameter)
• 1 x 5-7mm personal prussic 1.5 meters long and/or T-block
• 5 locking carabiners
• 4 carabiners

It is beneficial to practice using your own equipment under the supervision of a professional.

Specialized skills, best practices and advice is provided to deal with the following situations:

• Team of Two: Victim Self Rescues Team member in the crevasse ascends the rope out, stowing equipment, first aid, passing knots while ascending
• Team of Two Lone Surface Rescuer: Self Arrest, holding the weight & building the anchor
• 3 + Rope Team Middle Person Crevasse Fall
• Injured Victim, Dealing with an injured victim and their equipment
• Practical Bergschrund Snow Bridge Crossing
• *Whiteout Conditions Glacier Travel
• Bracketing up-track for downhill skiing
• Warning bearing for crevasses/serac
• Prussic use “fly-fishing” technique for low visibility high risk mountain terrain (e.g. ridges, cliffs, etc. )
*Note that weather & navigation are imperative glacier travel skills required but beyond the scope of this course. See Mountain Navigation Course