Intro to Multi-Pitch Climbing: Banff & Canmore Alberta
MSAA
Banff / Canmore

Intro To Multi-Pitch Climbing

Sport and Trad Multi-Pitch Climbing Canada

Summary

  • Cost:
  • $399

Location: Canmore and Banff, Canadian Rockies   Duration: 2 Days   Fitness: Good   Ability: Intermediate   Prerequisites: Outdoor Rock Experience  

This fast paced and fully comprehensive 2-day course includes 33 critical lessons and a full day of climbing a classic multi-pitch. This course is designed to meet the needs of climbers with previous basic outdoor or indoor climbing experience who wish to learn the complete set of multi-pitch rock climbing skills including advanced techniques.

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Course Information

This fast paced and fully comprehensive 2-day course includes 33 critical lessons and a full day of climbing a classic multi-pitch.

This course is designed to meet the needs of climbers with previous basic outdoor or indoor climbing experience who wish to learn the complete set of multi-pitch rock climbing skills including advanced techniques.

Introductory Multi-Pitch Climbing Lessons

We begin by reviewing all the essentials:

  • Equipment
  • Movement skills
  • Belaying and rappelling
  • Safety protocols
  • Rock climbing terminology
  • Route selection
  • Climbing grades, guidebooks, and more

We then move into the fundamental skills for Multi-Pitch rock climbing:

  • Multi-pitch theory
  • Safety and hazard management
  • Route selection
  • Gear requirements
  • Racking techniques
  • The multi-pitch backpack
  • Belaying considerations
  • Ascent & descent strategies

Forming first a powerful foundation we then move onto further advanced skills that provide the efficiency needed to complete multi-pitch routes in a timely manner.

Such skills as advanced rope management, specialize belaying techniques, rapid leader change-overs and more will contribute to an effective and efficient system which makes for speedy transitions on the ascent and descent.

The result is a sound foundation, a safe and effective technique and efficient multi-pitch transitions for speedy ascents and descents. All this is geared towards creating an independent multi-pitch climber who will have the skills to progress rapidly.

Taking on an Alberta Rockies classic multi-pitch route

On day 2 participants hone their skills on a multi-pitch route which involves several pitches and a rappel descent.

Those with lead climbing experience will be given the opportunity to lead within their ability level to develop independence. Every participant will lead a rappel descent.

This is a guided day climbing one of the many classic multi-pitch routes in the Rockies with a Guide:Client Ratio of 1:2.

The areas that we will do Multi-pitch routes in the Bow Valley include: Yamnuska, Kid Goat, Ha Ling, EEOR, The Ghost, Tunnel Mountain, Cascade Mountain and many others.

Day One

  • 09:00 Meet and greet, sign waivers, discuss current weather and local conditions, gear check
  • Lesson 1
  • Drive to course location. Carpooling recommended when possible
  • Lessons 2 – 9
  • Review: Modern traditional gear: Removing and Racking
  • Lunch at around noon
  • Lessons 10 – 27
  • 17:00 End of day. Debrief, discuss following day

Day Two

  • Meeting time and location to be determined by your guide at the end of Day 1
  • Morning Meeting: Review, Q & A session. Discuss current weather and local conditions, gear check
  • Drive to course location. Carpooling recommended when possible
  • Review – Environment : Leave no trace and wildlife discussion
  • Review – Multi-pitch Rock situational awareness & Onsite Safety: Review current hazards and safety protocols
  • Lessons 28 and 29
  • Safety: Review current hazards and safety protocols- situational awareness- Multi-pitch rock
  • Lessons 30 – 33
  • 17:00 End of day. Debrief, discuss next steps

Clothing

During the summer months weather conditions are constantly changing. Be prepared for both hot or cold days and even rain. There are several rain protected climbing venues. So please dress according to the forecast for the course days.

We recommend the following:

  • Climbing pants or sweatpants
  • T-shirt
  • Mid layer fleece
  • Rain jacket
  • Puffy or warm jacket
  • Warm hat
  • Thin gloves for belaying
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen
  • Sturdy hiking shoes or boots
  • Backpack large enough to carry personal and group gear.
  • Lunch and snacks

Outdoor Rock Climbing Equipment

  • Rock shoes
  • Harness
  • Helmet
  • Belay device
  • Locking carabiner
  • Chalk bag

We have rental equipment available if needed, but we highly recommend using your own gear so you can get comfortable with it under the guide’s instruction.

All group climbing equipment will be brought along for this course by your guide.

  • Lesson 1 Equipment check: For those using rental climbing equipment: Fit for climbing shoes, harness & helmet
  • Lesson 2 Environment : Leave no trace and wildlife discussion.
  • Lesson 3 On site safety: Current hazards and safety protocols.
  • Lesson 4 Introduction to multi-pitch Theory
  • Lesson 5 Review: Knots, belayer & rope placement-belaying, and communication
  • Lesson 6 The multi-pitch back pack and approach strategy
  • Lesson 7 Gear Requirements: Putting together the right rack for the route
  • Lesson 8 Route Selection: Selecting the right Multi-pitch climb
  • Lesson 9 Rope Selection: Single ropes vs half or twin ropes
  • Lesson 10 Securing Yourself: To an anchor during a multi-pitch
  • Lesson 11 Lead belaying and top-down belaying, re-directed belay – different systems
  • Lesson 12 Racking up for a multi-pitch
  • Lesson 13 Safety; Rope and Belay Management placement
  • Lesson 14 Multi-pitch communication and commands- rope tugs technique
  • Lesson 15 Protecting the second from pendulum
  • Lesson 16 Retreat Options and Backup Plans- problem solving
  • Lesson 17 Rappelling with a back-up prussic
  • Lesson 18 Extending the anchor to see your partner
  • Lesson 19 Efficient leader switch-overs
  • Lesson 20 Rope drag reduction technique
  • Lesson 21 Advanced rope management- Ascent: effective switch-overs re-stacking techniques
  • Lesson 22 Advanced rope management- Descent: – Lap coil throw, End of rope knots , pre-threading anchor
  • Lesson 23 Advanced safety techniques- rappeling with backup prussic/lap coils, lowering considerations
  • Lesson 24 Advanced safety techniques- J-looping anchor , fireman belay
  • Lesson 25 Mentoring day climbing up and descending a multi-pitch training route
  • Lesson 26 How to assess next days route condition, weather forecast and route choice
  • Lesson 27 Assignment: Participants choose next days objective and make a route plan
  • Lesson 28 Evaluate participants’ route selection, plan
  • Lesson 29 Evaluate participants route condition and weather forecast
  • Lesson 30 Participants either lead up within their comfort level and capability or are led up a multi-pitch route.
  • Lesson 31 On going multi-pitch system instruction and feedback during the day
  • Lesson 32 Participants lead down a multi-pitch via rappel
  • Lesson 33 On going multi-pitch systems instruction and feedback during the descent- Course debrief and next step recommendations

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Important Information

We strongly recommend you purchase Trip Cancellation Insurance upon booking and Emergency Evacuation insurance.

Emergency Evacuation and Medical

This coverage provides you with emergency air rescue if required and full medical. Parks Canada provides free evacuation within the Parks and if you are a Canadian resident your medical will be covered by National Health.

We strongly recommend international visitors purchase this insurance. Emergency evacuation insurance is also compulsory for all our hut trips, as these typically take place outside of Parks Canada’s jurisdiction.

Trip Cancellation Insurance

To prepare for unforeseen circumstances we strongly recommend purchasing Trip Cancellation Insurance at the time of booking your trip. Trip Cancellation insurance covers many scenarios to reimburse you for cancelled trips outside of your control.

Our recommended insurance provider is Tugo.Com who can be reached via the following:

All course prices are quoted in Canadian Dollars and are exclusive of a 5% Federal GST. Prices are subject to change.

Full payment is required at time of registration. Our preferred method of payment is by Mastercard or VISA through our online payment portal. We also accept Credit Card payment over the phone, bank transfer and cash.

Mountain Skills Academy takes mountain safety very seriously, however there is no way to completely mitigate risk in alpine environments. Prior to undertaking any of our courses or trips we require you to sign a waiver.

Mountain conditions are extremely unpredictable and can change at short notice. Our guides endeavor to undertake the routes and/or peaks that our clients desire, however our decisions will be impacted by conditions. Unfortunately we are not able to offer refunds if conditions are not suitable to undertake a particular route on the day you have booked. We will however make every effort to take you out for the best day possible given the conditions.

Applicable to all tours and courses*: If conditions force us to cancel a course or trip we will do all we can to accommodate you at another date. If this isn’t possible we will offer a full refund. We reserve the right to decline rescheduling dates based on availability. *Does not apply to First Aid and WFR courses.

Adventures Cancellation Policy

Half Day and Full Day Programs

  • Within 24 hours: Cancellation notice will result in a 100% forfeit of tuition, no reschedule.
  • Outside of 24 hours: $25 rescheduling fee per booking or full refund.
Multi Day Programs
  • 2 Day Programs: Within 10 days cancellation notice will result in a 100% forfeit of tuition, Outside of 10 days: $25 penalty to reschedule per booking or full refund.
  • 3+ Day Programs: 30 days cancellation notice will result in a 100% forfeit of tuition, Outside of 30 days: $75 penalty to reschedule or full refund.
  • Customized Trips: 30 days cancellation notice will result in a 100% forfeit of tuition, Outside of 30 days: $75penalty to reschedule per booking or full refund.

**On all multi day trips pre arranged add-ons are non-refundable (food, accommodation, etc).

Courses Cancellation Policy

1-2 Day Courses

  • Within 10 days: Cancellation notice will result in a 100% forfeit of tuition
  • Outside of 10 days: $75 penalty to reschedule per booking or full refund.

3+ Day Courses

  • Within 30 days: Cancellation notice will result in a 100% forfeit of tuition
  • Outside of 30 days: $75 penalty to reschedule per booking or full refund.

**If you are able to find someone else to take your place on a course, please let us know as we are more than happy to transfer bookings.

Minors (under the age of 18 for our courses based in Alberta and 19 for those based in BC) and custodial groups (youths affiliated with an institution where the parents/legal guardian are not present on the trip) may register for certain trips and courses with a letter of consent from parents or legal guardian as well as must sign a waiver and have their parents or legal guardian sign a waiver. Further, we abide by the Parks Canada Custodial Group winter backcountry policy as outlined here.


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