Performance Ice Clinic - Banff and Canmore
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Banff / Canmore

Performance Ice Clinic

Waterfall ice Climbing Training Coast mountains

Summary

  • Cost:
  • $500

Location: Canmore & Banff, Canadian Rockies   Duration: 2 Days   Fitness: Average   Ability: Intermediate   Prerequisites: Multi-Pitch Experience   Course Code: PICECLNCBanCan

During this mentorship course, we will focus on Mountain Skills Academy’s experience driven ice climbing technique, a technique refined by world class ice climber Eric Dumerac, as a foundation and development tool to enhance performance.

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The following dates are available for this course.

We will post up more public dates if there is demand, so please let us know what dates work better for you.

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Course Information

This course is recommended for ice climbers whose ability level fits between intermediate and advanced.
During this mentorship course, we will focus on Mountain Skills Academy’s experience driven ice climbing technique, a technique refined by world class ice climber Eric Dumerac, as a foundation and development tool to enhance performance.
This is achieved through understanding the ice climbing technique phases and concepts:

  • Stance
  • Balance
  • 3 dimensional plane
  • Optimal route finding strategy
  • Optimal protection placement
  • Learning to rest
  • Setting a paceCritical safety & acceptable level of risk decision making

All the key components are broken down, explained, demonstrated, practiced, error corrected and fine-tuned until we have the desired progression.

All instruction is provided with a low guide to client ratio of 1:2, and our methodology is based on tailoring our mentorship to each participant’s needs.

Due to this approach and climbing site selection, each course participant’s different ability levels will not interfere with the climber’s progression. Several key technique building exercises are rehearsed until they become ingrained to get rid of any bad habits and establish a sound foundation.

This very well crafted course will maximize an ice climber’s current performance as well as provide all the necessary tools for them to reach the highest levels of ice climbing performance.

Day One

07:30 Meet at Summit Café in Canmore

Meet and greet, sign waivers, discuss current weather and local conditions, gear check

Lesson 1

Drive to field location

Lessons 2 – 7

Lunch at around noon

16:30 End of day. Debrief, discuss following day

Day Two

08:00

Morning Meeting: location as for Day 1, discuss current weather and local conditions, gear check

Drive to field location

Lessons 8 – 14

Lunch at around noon

Performance evaluation: technique fine- tuning and feedback

Final evaluation: feedback and future progression preparation

16:30 End of day. Debrief, discuss next steps

Course closure

We are happy to help source any rental gear you need for your trip

Clothing

  • Warm top and bottom under layers and socks
  • Mid layer fleece top
  • Weatherproof shell jacket and pants
  • Down or synthetic insulated “puffy” jacket
  • Gaiters
  • Warm hat
  • Balaclava
  • 2 pairs of gloves, optional mittensSunglasses & sunscreen

Equipment

  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Mountaineering boots
  • 2 technical ice axes
  • Crampons
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • 1 x 120cm sling
  • Autoblock belay device

Equipment – Multi-Pitch

  • 1 Abalacov Hooker
  • 1 small knife
  • 1 x 1m section of 7mm prussic
  • 5 medium ice screws
  • 4 long ice screws
  • 6 quickdraws, 60cm slings, or screamers with non-locking carabiners
  • 2 x 120cm slings

*We will provide all of the multi-pitch equipment for your use, if you own this gear please let us know when you register and bring it along.

If you do not own the equipment we can arrange rental for you for $20 per day.

At this level we strongly recommend purchasing your own harness, helmet, locking carabiner, belay device, sling, ice axe and crampons. If you own any or all of this please let us know when you register and bring it along to the course so we can teach you the correct usage techniques and get you climbing comfortably in your own gear.

If you require gear rental please let us know exactly what equipment you need to rent so we can quote the best possible price for you and ensure availability.

Lesson 1 Equipment: Adjust crampons, harnesses, helmets and backpack set-ups.

Lesson 2 Environment: Leave no trace and wildlife discussion.

Lesson 3 Onsite safety: Current hazards and safety protocols.

Lesson 4 Performance ice climbing specific equipment reviewed.

Lesson 5 IceXpert technique foundation reviewed and implemented.

Lesson 6 Participant technique comparison with iceXpert technique i.e. strengths and weakness, and recognizing areas to be focused on for progression.

Lesson 7 Belaying: Technique building exercises specific to each participant

Lesson 8 Progression from previous day: IceXpert ice climbing technique broken down into important phases and concepts according to each participants needs.

Lesson 9 Technique: demonstration and exercises designed to resolve any bad habits and ingrain good technique in stance, balance and the 3 dimensional plane.

Lesson 10 Optimal route finding strategy

Lesson 11 Optimal protection placement

Lesson 12 Route strategy: learning to rest, conserving energy and setting a pace

Lesson 13 Critical safety & acceptable level of risk decision making.

Lesson 14 Progression evaluation and feedback Ongoing practice with emphasis on any weaknesses: error correction fine-tuning

Transport to Field Locations

Participants in this course will meet their guide at an agreed time and location, usually a local cafe, in Canmore on the morning of the first day. From there you will be expected to have private transport to get to the course location. If you don’t have private transport we can arrange transport with the guide for $20 per day.

Accommodation in Canmore

Accommodation is not included in the course price however we offer significantly discounted pricing arrangements through a selection of local providers ranging from hostel dorm beds to hotel suites.

If you require accommodation in Canmore for the length of your course please let us know when you register and we can make the arrangements. Often course participants split the cost of a room and are able to enjoy the amenity of a full service hotel at the price of a hostel dorm bed.

Food for Backcountry Field Days

Please make sure you pack plenty of high energy food and snacks as well as fluids to keep you at your best all day long. There are plenty of restaurants and supermarkets in Canmore, and if you completely forget we start the day at a local coffee shop so you’ll be able to grab something for lunch from there. A thermos of tea or coffee is also a great idea.

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Important Information

We strongly recommend you purchase Trip Cancellation Insurance upon booking and Emergency Evacuation insurance.

Emergency Evacuation and Medical

This coverage provides you with emergency air rescue if required and full medical. Parks Canada provides free evacuation within the Parks and if you are a Canadian resident your medical will be covered by National Health.

We strongly recommend international visitors purchase this insurance. Emergency evacuation insurance is also compulsory for all our hut trips, as these typically take place outside of Parks Canada’s jurisdiction.

Trip Cancellation Insurance

To prepare for unforeseen circumstances we strongly recommend purchasing Trip Cancellation Insurance at the time of booking your trip. Trip Cancellation insurance covers many scenarios to reimburse you for cancelled trips outside of your control.

Our recommended insurance provider is Tugo.Com who can be reached via the following:

All course prices are quoted in Canadian Dollars and are exclusive of a 5% Federal GST. Prices are subject to change.

Full payment is required at time of registration. Our preferred method of payment is by Mastercard or VISA through our online payment portal. We also accept Credit Card payment over the phone, bank transfer and cash.

Mountain Skills Academy takes mountain safety very seriously, however there is no way to completely mitigate risk in alpine environments. Prior to undertaking any of our courses or trips we require you to sign a waiver.

Mountain conditions are extremely unpredictable and can change at short notice. Our guides endeavor to undertake the routes and/or peaks that our clients desire, however our decisions will be impacted by conditions. Unfortunately we are not able to offer refunds if conditions are not suitable to undertake a particular route on the day you have booked. We will however make every effort to take you out for the best day possible given the conditions.

Applicable to all tours and courses*: If conditions force us to cancel a course or trip we will do all we can to accommodate you at another date. If this isn’t possible we will offer a full refund. We reserve the right to decline rescheduling dates based on availability. *Does not apply to First Aid and WFR courses.

Adventures Cancellation Policy

Half Day and Full Day Programs

  • Within 24 hours: Cancellation notice will result in a 100% forfeit of tuition, no reschedule.
  • Outside of 24 hours: $25 rescheduling fee per booking or full refund.
Multi Day Programs
  • 2 Day Programs: Within 10 days cancellation notice will result in a 100% forfeit of tuition, Outside of 10 days: $25 penalty to reschedule per booking or full refund.
  • 3+ Day Programs: 30 days cancellation notice will result in a 100% forfeit of tuition, Outside of 30 days: $75 penalty to reschedule or full refund.
  • Customized Trips: 30 days cancellation notice will result in a 100% forfeit of tuition, Outside of 30 days: $75penalty to reschedule per booking or full refund.

**On all multi day trips pre arranged add-ons are non-refundable (food, accommodation, etc).

Courses Cancellation Policy

1-2 Day Courses

  • Within 10 days: Cancellation notice will result in a 100% forfeit of tuition
  • Outside of 10 days: $75 penalty to reschedule per booking or full refund.

3+ Day Courses

  • Within 30 days: Cancellation notice will result in a 100% forfeit of tuition
  • Outside of 30 days: $75 penalty to reschedule per booking or full refund.

**If you are able to find someone else to take your place on a course, please let us know as we are more than happy to transfer bookings.

Minors (under the age of 18 for our courses based in Alberta and 19 for those based in BC) and custodial groups (youths affiliated with an institution where the parents/legal guardian are not present on the trip) may register for certain trips and courses with a letter of consent from parents or legal guardian as well as must sign a waiver and have their parents or legal guardian sign a waiver. Further, we abide by the Parks Canada Custodial Group winter backcountry policy as outlined here.


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