This course is recommended for ice climbers of intermediate to advanced abilities.
The curriculum focuses on our experience-driven ice climbing technique; a technique refined by world class ice climber Eric Dumerac, as a foundation and development tool to enhance performance.
*All Courses subject to a minimum number of participants. 48 hour notice will be given if minimum number has not been reached.
This is achieved through understanding the ice climbing technique phases and concepts:
- 3 dimensional plane
- Optimal route finding strategy
- Optimal protection placement
- Learning to rest
- Setting a pace
- Critical safety
- Acceptable level of risk decision making
All the key components are broken down, explained, demonstrated, practiced, error corrected and fine-tuned until we have the desired progression.
All instruction is provided with a maximum of 2 students per instructor, and our methodology is based on tailoring our mentorship to your needs.
Several key technique building exercises are rehearsed to establish a sound foundation. Bring your ice climbing to the next level with this excellent 2 day clinic.
- Meet the instructor, sign waivers, safety discussion, and gear check
- Drive to field location
- Lessons 1-4
- Climbing warm up and participant technique and ability evaluation
- Lessons 5-7
- End of day. Debrief, discuss following day
- Meet at pre-arranged location
- Safety discussion and gear check
- Drive to field location
- Lessons 8-14
- Performance evaluation: technique fine-tuning and feedback
- End of day. Debrief
- Final evaluation: feedback and future progression preparation
- Backpack 25-35L
- Mountaineering boots
- 2 technical ice axes
- 2 locking carabiners
- 3 x 120cm sling
- Belay device
- 1 Abalacov Hooker
- 1 small knife
- 1 x 1m 7mm prussik
- 5 medium ice screws
- 4 long ice screws
- 6 quickdraws or 60cm slings or screamers with non-locking carabiners
- Insulating top and bottom under layers and socks
- Mid layer fleece top
- Down or synthetic insulating “puffy” jacket
- Weatherproof shell jacket and pants
- Warm hat and balaklava
- 2 pairs of gloves (preferably light and waterproof)
- Warm mittens
- Sunglasses & sunscreen
Bring lunch, snacks and water for both days.
We highly recommend using your own gear so we can teach you the correct usage techniques and get you climbing comfortably in your own gear.
- Lesson 1 Equipment: Adjust crampons, harnesses, helmets and backpack set-ups
- Lesson 2 Environment: Leave no trace and wildlife discussion
- Lesson 3 Onsite safety: Current hazards and safety protocols
- Lesson 4 Performance ice climbing specific equipment reviewed
- Lesson 5 IceXpert technique foundation reviewed and implemented.
- Lesson 6 Participant technique comparison with iceXpert technique i.e. strengths and weakness, and recognizing areas to be focused on for progression.
- Lesson 7 Belaying: Technique building exercises specific to each participant
- Lesson 8 Progression from previous day: IceXpert ice climbing technique broken down into important phases and concepts according to each participants needs.
- Lesson 9 Technique: demonstration and exercises designed to resolve any bad habits and ingrain good technique in stance, balance and the 3 dimensional plane.
- Lesson 10 Optimal route finding strategy
- Lesson 11 Optimal protection placement
- Lesson 12 Route strategy: learning to rest, conserving energy and setting a pace
- Lesson 13 Critical safety and acceptable level of risk decision making.
- Lesson 14 Progression evaluation and feedback Ongoing practice with emphasis on any weaknesses: error correction fine-tuning