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Course Prep

How To Minimize Rope Drag (Advanced Trad Climbing Skills)

Learn how to reduce rope drag with MSAA, using quickdraws, alpine draws and slings to manage rope bends on wandering climbs.

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Video Transcript

All right, we’re going to talk about managing rope drag.

Olly has climbed a wandering route with protection placed in cracks on both the left and the right. He’s used quickdraws, alpine draws and 120 cm slings to keep the rope running in as straight a line as possible.

In this example, you can see a lot of side-to-side movement. The same principle applies to changes in and out from the rock, such as placing gear at the back of a ledge or before a roof. Those are also situations where we need to extend our gear.

This setup has been managed well. Now let’s look at what it would look like if it hadn’t been.

You can see that Olly has now made some significant mistakes in managing rope drag. Compared with the first setup, the rope travels through sharp angles as it connects the pieces of protection.

As the climber, that feels like constant resistance from the rope while you’re moving upwards. As the belayer, it can also be extremely difficult to lower someone when there’s a lot of rope drag.

Instructor Tutorial: How to Reduce Rope Drag in Trad Climbing

In this tutorial from Mountain Skills Academy and Adventures, the instructor compares two rope-management setups on a wandering trad climb. The demonstration shows how quickdraws, alpine draws and longer slings can help the rope follow a smoother path between protection placements.

Rope drag is the friction that resists the rope’s movement through the climbing system. Repeated or sharp changes in direction can increase that resistance, making it harder for the climber to move upwards and more difficult for the belayer to lower them.

Step 1: Look Ahead at the Rope’s Path

Before choosing how to extend a placement, consider where the route goes next and how the rope will connect the pieces of protection.

On a wandering climb, suitable cracks may alternate between the left and right sides of the route. Without appropriate extension, the rope can zigzag sharply between those placements.

Aim for a rope path that runs as straight and smoothly as practical while maintaining suitable protection for the climb.

Step 2: Choose Appropriate Extension for Each Placement

The video demonstrates using a combination of quickdraws, alpine draws and 120 cm slings to manage the rope’s path.

Extending a placement moves the rope’s clipping point farther from the protection, which can help reduce an unnecessary bend. Choose the extension length according to the placement, the surrounding terrain and the direction the rope will travel next.

The 120 cm slings shown are one option within that combination. Assess how much extension each placement needs.

Step 3: Account for Ledges and Roofs

Rope drag also develops when the rope changes direction in and out from the rock.

The instructor highlights gear placed at the back of a ledge or before a roof. These features can force the rope around bends even when the placements appear aligned from side to side.

Consider the rope’s full path through the terrain when deciding whether a placement needs extension.

Step 4: Recognize the Difference Between the Two Setups

In the first setup, the combination of extension lengths helps the rope follow a relatively straight line.

In the second, the rope makes sharp changes in direction between placements. The instructor explains that this creates noticeable resistance for the climber and can make lowering more difficult for the belayer.

Use the comparison to practise identifying where a rope path develops unnecessary bends and where suitable extension could improve it.

Final Check

As you assess the rope line, confirm that:

  • You have considered where the route goes next.
  • The rope avoids unnecessary sharp changes in direction between placements.
  • You have checked for both sideways bends and bends around ledges or roofs.
  • Extension lengths suit the individual placements and terrain.
  • You have considered how the extensions affect potential fall distance and clearance above the ground or ledges.

Safety Note

Longer extensions can increase potential fall distance. Consider ground and ledge clearance, and use only as much extension as the placement requires.

Practise protection placement and rope management with a qualified climbing professional. Follow your equipment manufacturer’s instructions and assess the complete protection system as you climb.