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Course Prep

Crag Hazards & Ethics – Outdoor Rock Climbing

Learn crag safety and climbing etiquette with MSAA, from rockfall awareness and tidy gear to Leave No Trace and respectful route sharing.

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Video Transcript

We’re going to talk about life at the crag. We want to make sure we’re properly assessing the hazards, maintaining good ethics and being great stewards of the climbing community.

As I approach the crag, the first thing I need to think about is when to put my helmet on. Depending on where you are, that’s going to be different.

I look at the cliff. The taller the cliff, the farther rockfall could potentially travel, so I may need to put my helmet on earlier. Sometimes we have our helmets on for a long time during the approach because we’re exposed to potential rockfall.

As I approach this cliff, I’m going to put my helmet on.

Once I’m at the crag, I want to take a moment to look around and identify the hazards. This crag has a beautifully flat base area without many ground hazards. At other crags, there might be drop-offs, rough ground, talus or boulders.

My belaying stance could be somewhere like this, right at the edge of a hill. I need to pay attention to my climber while also being aware of the potential to fall down the slope.

We also want to be considerate of other people at the crag.

One way we do this is through how we store our gear. Notice that our backpacks are together, with everything contained in one small area. We haven’t spread our gear all over the place.

This is especially important when we’re beside hiking trails. If hikers walked past a climbing crag and saw our gear scattered everywhere, they could start to develop a pretty negative impression of climbers.

We also need to follow Leave No Trace principles. That means using the washroom away from the crag, disposing of human waste properly and taking care of our garbage. We want to leave the place as we found it, without taking anything from the natural environment.

Another important part of the climbing community is supporting bolt funds and local access groups. I highly recommend donating to our local group in Squamish, the Sea to Sky Bolt Fund.

Wherever you choose to climb, look into the local organizations there as well. You might not see all their work, but they do so much for the climbing community.

You can also see that the place where I’ve set up to climb is fairly clean and uncluttered.

“Hey, how long are you going to be climbing on this rope?”

“I’ve got two more climbers on it. It’ll probably be about 45 minutes, and then it’s all yours.”

“Awesome, thank you.”

“Sweet.”

That’s a simple interaction you’ll have at the crag all the time. It’s a great way to approach another party using a climb you’d like to get on.

At Mountain Skills Academy, we aim to be great stewards of the climbing environment, and we hope our clients will do the same when they’re out climbing.

Instructor Tutorial: Crag Safety and Climbing Etiquette

In this tutorial, Corey Woolnough, an ACMG Apprentice Alpine Guide with Mountain Skills Academy and Adventures, explains how to assess hazards and practise considerate behaviour at an outdoor climbing crag.

He covers helmet use on the approach, choosing a suitable belay position, keeping gear organized, following Leave No Trace principles and sharing routes respectfully. These habits help climbers look after themselves, other visitors and the places where they climb.

Step 1: Assess Rockfall Exposure on the Approach

Start assessing the climbing area before you reach the base of the cliff.

Look at the terrain above you and consider where falling rocks could travel. Put your climbing helmet on before entering terrain exposed to rockfall.

The appropriate point to put on your helmet depends on the cliff, the approach and the surrounding terrain. As Corey explains, some approaches involve wearing a helmet well before arriving at the climbing area.

Step 2: Check the Base Area and Belay Position

When you arrive, pause and look around before setting up.

A flat, open base can present different challenges from a steep slope, rocky landing or narrow ledge. Look for uneven ground, loose rock, boulders and drop-offs that could affect where you stand or move.

Choose a suitable belay position that lets you manage your climber while accounting for the terrain around you.

Step 3: Keep Your Gear Organized and Trails Clear

Keep backpacks and spare equipment together in a compact area.

Avoid spreading belongings across hiking trails, access paths or places where other climbers need to stand and move. An organized setup helps everyone share the available space and creates a more welcoming environment for other visitors.

Corey emphasizes that how climbers use the base area also shapes how hikers and other trail users experience the crag.

Step 4: Follow Leave No Trace Principles

Plan how you will manage waste before spending the day at the crag.

Use established washrooms where available. Where there are no facilities, follow the area’s human-waste disposal requirements and keep waste away from climbing areas, trails and water sources.

Pack out your garbage and food scraps, check your setup area before leaving and leave natural features as you found them.

Step 5: Support the Local Climbing Community

Learn about the organizations supporting the places where you climb.

Corey recommends supporting the Sea to Sky Bolt Fund, which helps fund fixed hardware for new climbing routes in Squamish and the Sea to Sky region.

Wherever you climb, look into local bolt funds and access organizations, understand their work and consider contributing where you can.

Step 6: Communicate Respectfully When Sharing Routes

A friendly conversation can make sharing a busy crag much easier.

At an appropriate moment, ask the other party how long they expect to be using the route. If someone asks about your plans, give a clear, realistic answer.

The video demonstrates a simple exchange:

“Hey, how long are you going to be climbing on this rope?”

“I’ve got two more climbers on it. It’ll probably be about 45 minutes, and then it’s all yours.”

Clear communication helps other climbers plan their time and keeps interactions courteous.

Final Check

Before settling in to climb, confirm that:

  • You have considered overhead hazards and put on your helmet before entering rockfall-exposed terrain.
  • Your setup area and belay position account for slopes, uneven ground and drop-offs.
  • Backpacks and spare gear are organized, with trails and access paths kept clear.
  • You have a plan for managing waste and packing out your garbage.
  • Your group is considerate of other climbers, hikers and people waiting to use routes.

Safety Note

Use this tutorial alongside hands-on instruction from a qualified climbing professional. Combine helmet use with careful positioning and ongoing assessment of overhead and ground hazards.

Follow local access rules, posted restrictions and land-manager guidance. Continue checking your surroundings throughout the day as conditions and activity at the crag change.