In this tutorial, Corey from Mountain Skills Academy & Adventures, an ACMG Apprentice Alpine Guide, demonstrates how to tie a Prusik hitch.
A Prusik is a friction hitch that can slide along a rope when unloaded and grip the rope when its attachment loop is pulled. When correctly formed with compatible materials, it grips in both directions, allowing it to function as a rope grab.
Corey demonstrates a three-wrap method using a sewn loop, explains how to manage the wraps with your fingers and finishes by checking the hitch’s movement and grip.
Step 1: Prepare a Suitable Loop
Corey uses a pre-sewn loop for the demonstration and notes that cordelette can also be used.
Choose a loop designed for friction-hitch use, or suitable cord made into a secure loop using an appropriate method. Your instructor can help you confirm that the loop is suitable for the rope and intended application.
Step 2: Place the Loop Under the Rope
Position the loop under the main rope as shown in the video.
Pass one end of the loop through the opening on the other side, following Corey’s hand movements. He uses his fingers as small pincers to hold the opening and pull the loop through.
Keep the material organised so you can see how each pass wraps around the main rope.
Step 3: Complete the Three Wraps Shown in the Video
Continue the wrapping sequence until you have completed the three wraps demonstrated by Corey.
He describes this as a “triple girth hitch,” which provides a useful way to remember the repeated wrapping action.
Three wraps are used in this demonstration. The appropriate number of wraps depends on the loop, rope and application, so follow the equipment manufacturer’s instructions and your instructor’s guidance for your setup.
Step 4: Dress and Set the Hitch
Arrange the wraps neatly around the main rope so they sit beside one another without unnecessary twists or crossovers.
Pull on the attachment loop to settle the wraps and form a compact hitch. Check that the finished arrangement matches the rope path shown in the demonstration.
Taking time to dress the hitch makes it easier to inspect before checking its function.
Step 5: Check Movement and Grip in Both Directions
With the Prusik unloaded, check that you can reposition it along the main rope.
Then pull on the attachment loop in one direction and check that the hitch catches. Repeat the check in the opposite direction.
Corey demonstrates both parts of this check: the hitch moves when unloaded and grips when the loop is pulled. If it continues to slide when it should grip, have your instructor check the hitch and the compatibility of the materials before relying on it.
Final Check
Before using the Prusik as part of a rope system, confirm that:
- The loop is appropriate for the main rope and intended use.
- The wraps are neatly dressed and correctly arranged.
- The hitch can be repositioned when unloaded.
- It grips when the attachment loop is pulled in either direction.
Have a qualified instructor confirm the hitch’s suitability and its role within the complete system.
Safety Note: This written guide is a companion to the video and is not a substitute for hands-on instruction from a qualified climbing professional. Prusik performance depends on the materials, rope condition and number of wraps, so compatibility must be checked before use.